Mercy!"We need transparency in the world" was Italo Zucchelli's summation of his latest menswear collection for Calvin Klein. That could be the manifesto of more than one designer in Milan this week, but Zucchelli pushed the idea into otherworldly territory. He is the futurist of men's fashion, a Trojan horse, really, because he is using the umbrella of America's archetypal sportswear label to advance a vision of the way that men might ideally dress in a parallel universe. The twist in Zucchelli's tale is that, perfect though these creatures might be, they are not necessarily comfortable with what their future holds, hence mannequins who looked as awkward on the catwalk as could be expected after a thousand-year journey from another galaxy. At least Zucchelli gave them a wardrobe to wear when they landed."
A weirdly noncommittal review. Well, we'll commit to it: we love this collection. The crisply tailored jackets and pants, the sleeveless shirts, the cuffed shorts, and that amazing pop of blue and orange, it all just makes our skirts fly up. Gorgeous clothes on gorgeous men. We'll take it.
[Photos: firstVIEW]
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